Little Owl

RestaurantGirl Jun 16 06

The little owl

Dining in this quaint no-frills cafe was a welcome relief in the wake of the recent Asian fusion invasion, not to mention joey campanaro's back in the kitchen after the Tribeca loss of Pace. It's simple, but charming: nine tables, exposed brick, ceiling-to-floor windows, and mix & match plates. While Joey's running the kitchen, Gabriel Stillman's a one man show in the front of house - playing host, taking reservations, checking bags and even waiting tables.

little owl seems to be an overnight neighborhood success, that's already drawing regulars. Yet, what seems to get people coming back is the atmosphere and company more than the food, which is mostly good, but somewhat inconsistent. While the hamachi appetizer arrived overcooked on the outside & undercooked on the inside, it curiously worked when eaten in the same bite with the accompanying fried onions & crunchy slaw. Similarly, the meatball sliders with melted fresh pecorino were satisfying & pleasing to the eye, but not sufficiently distinct. Thankfully, I had more luck in the next round. Wading in a flavorful, but light tomato broth, the exceptionally fresh ricotta cavatelli, dotted with thick chunks of savory bacon left an indelible impression on my palate. But my favorite was the rarely served tile fish - a perfect summer dish - broiled atop a fresh corn salad and smothered with pesto vinaigrette. I say skip dessert & walk to Milk & Cookies for warm ice cream cookie sandwiches.
Restaurant Girl

TAGS: the little owl, Cafe, Joey Campanaro, Small