Some New York restaurants go out of their way to remind you that you are not dining at home around the family dinner table–ornate lighting, moose heads and driftwood mounted on the walls, bolts of fabric draped in sine waves from ceiling corner to ceiling corner–all theatre used to distinguish haute from home. And sometimes this works to amplify the pleasure of dining out– the ethereal atmosphere at the Modern succeeds, as does the fin-de-siecle decadence of Dressler. Other times it most decidedly does not, and it is then, amidst a sea of condescending waiters, blaring music, and ingredients listed in Latin on the menu that you might find yourself wishing you had opted not to leave your apartment in the first place.
Then there are restaurants like westville, so straightforward in their unstudied casualness that walking into them feels a bit like walking into someone's cramped Manhattan living room. Except that at westville, chalked on a series of wall-mounted blackboards like a child's art project gone wild, is the entire menu, with a few specials added for good measure. When dishes run out, they are scratched off the menu by the single friendly waitress/manager as she jokes with customers at each table as if they were close neighbors. In all likelihood they are just that, as westville draws many regulars from the West Village and does a significant takeout business.
That westville has attracted a devoted following among Villagers, some of whom treat the restaurant as their second kitchen, is a testament to the consistency of its cooking. Owner and chef Jay Strauss has created a varied, if a bit predictable menu of All-American classics (burgers, grilled Niman Ranch hot dogs), salads, fish and steaks, but what really makes westville stand out is its focus on using fresh produce in its comfort food. The Latin-style corn on the cob ($5 for two ears) is a good example of this. Full cobs are a summertime treat that you do not often find on (non-BBQ) restaurant menus, primarily because gnawing kernels can seem a little inelegant, even for the most dextrous among us. westville doesn't mind this one bit, and even the most clumsy corn cobber won't be scolded for making a mess. It is hard not to like the dish's classic preparation: the generous dose of cumin, the aged, semi-hard Mexican cotija cheese, and the lime flavors. Just one thing was missing: heat. Next time we return, we'll remember to ask for a little chili on the side.
Corn is just one of the restaurant's respectable lineup of vegetable dishes that it categorizes in a separate menu section called the westville Market. In practice, the market usually offers around twenty varieties of seasonal veggies that diners can order either as side dishes or as an entire course ($5 individually, $13 for a plate of four). This makes westville a great destination for vegetarians and, at this time of year, for non-vegetarians who want what's fresh. The night we went, Nosher was in just this sort of mood, and he ordered a plate of grilled asparagus with lemon and parmesan cheese, a curried chickpea salad, an arugula and feta salad, and brussels sprouts with a spicy dijon dressing. Not everything was equally good - the curry was sticky and underseasoned–but the barely softened brussels sprouts were superb, as were the savory asparagus spears. For sheer breadth of flavors on one plate, this entrée made postponing protein worthwhile.
On the other hand, I was not feeling like delaying my protein fix, and after a few bites of my main, I was glad I had not. My cod fish po'boy ($8.50) was a satisfying tower of battered cod and homemade, chunky tartar sauce, all on a seedless (if characterless) bun. Here the proportions of the shoebox-sized restaurant worked to my advantage, as the sandwich was whisked from fryer to table in a matter of seconds, allowing me to bite into still steaming, silky strips of cod. One thing did leave me scratching my head though: in a restaurant with an embarrassment of fresh vegetables for the choosing, how could my po'boy have ended up with such a conspicuously wan tomato?
A slice of mealy garnish is not likely to stem the flow of eager customers who start to queue in front of the restaurant on most nights after 7 p.m. westville doesn't take reservations, and the consequence of this is a wait that can stretch to over an hour. We would love to see the restaurant add another bench for the inevitable crowd of hungry customers, because from the looks of things, people are already starting to bring their own furniture to use while they are waiting. Last week we spotted two desk chairs and a stool on the sidewalk. All westville needs now is a few couches and a coffee table to make the sidewalk-to-living room transformation complete. Last one done with dinner, please turn out the lights.
westville, 210 West 10th Street (between Bleecker and West 4th Streets), 212-741-7971.
